I utilized the day to explore the City and check on the motorcycle renting scene. Stanzin Dorjey is the owner of T.S Adventures and runs a business of renting motorcycles and cars. Stanzin informed me that I would first have to apply for a permit if I wish to go to Nubra Valley and Pangong Lake. The permit is sort of a visa allowing restricted access to some of the militarized areas. He said, he could arrange the permit for around 150 bucks (you could do this permit thing on your own and save yourselves around 50 bucks but we decided to get it done through him as a lot depended on it). The cost of renting the Enfield Thunderbird was Rs. 700 a day. Dilip didn’t know how to ride but he agreed to tag along. So we applied for the permit, and, readied ourselves to ride to Khardungla (or K-top as it is called in these parts of the world) next day.
But, to our misfortune, there was a strike in the department issuing the permit and we were told that it would take 2-3 days for the settlement. Now, this little piece of misfortune had the potential of destroying everything I had planned to do. So, when we went next day, we did not get the permit and plus we had already paid Rs. 700 as motorcycle charges for the day. So I decided to take the motorcycle for a ride in the city and see some of the local sights. It turned out to be a good decision. I had never ridden the Thunderbird before. It took me some time getting used to its raw power. And plus I had never ridden up and down nasty slopes. So the day was an excellent primer for me to get used to what I would encounter going to K-top. We took the motorcycle on the beautiful Srinagar Highway and saw some memorable vistas. The beauty was truly breathtaking. We took pit-stops to see the Kargil-Hall of Fame Museum, the Spituk Monastery, the Magnetic Hill and finally the confluence point of the rivers Indus and Zanskar near Nimu. The Magnetic Hill is a small stretch of road on the Srinagar Highway where the vehicle travels on its own without acceleration (apparently a magnetic field pulls the vehicle so that it moves even without engine power). I didn’t believe it – so I switched off the engine of the motorcycle – and swear to God the damn heavy motorcycle moved. You could also do rafting on the Zanskar. The ride was stunningly beautiful and almost everything looked surreal.(Inset pictures: Srinagar Highway, Kargil Memorial, Magnetic Hill and Indus-Zanskar confluence)
In the evening I went to Shanti Stupa and the Leh Palace. Leh Palace is pretty ordinary, but both Shanti Stupa and Leh Palace offer stunning views of the City of Leh (check the inset pictures) and if not for anything else one must visit these places for the vistas.(Inset pictures: views from Shanti Stupa and Leh Palace)
After being on the road for most of the day, we decided to end the day hoping that we get the permit at least the next day. Early morning on the next day, news filtered in that the strike was still on. And that was as bad a news we could get. But, luckily, Stanzin had pulled a minor miracle and managed to get us the permit. I really owe him for that one. So the trip to K-top was on. I quickly rushed to my room, readied the bag, put on an extra jacket (as it would get really cold at 18000 ft), carried gloves and glasses and also took medicine (such as diamox, for encountering any high altitude sickness). I was a shade worried about taking Dilip with me as he is 50+ and I wasn’t sure whether he would endure the stress of change in altitude from almost 11000 ft to 18000 ft. But endure he did. And what an achievement it was. Khardungla or the K-top is almost 45 km uphill from the City of Leh. Just 45 km! But in those 45 km, you move almost 7000 ft up. The ride is ok initially, but later on it gets tough. On one side, you have the deep valley to contend with and the other side there is landslides. So basically, the width of the road is such that only one truck can pass and you have to be extra careful on the turns which are as treacherous as any. The road gets really bad towards the last 10 km or so and you have to contend with driving on stones and gravel (while keeping your balance as toppling would mean a crash-landing of 7000 ft). Reaching the “World’s Highest motorable pass” (18,380 ft) is a moment I won’t ever forget. It was divine. Dilip somehow held up to that point, but he was in no mood to ride an extra 120 km to Nubra Valley. So we had to return. It took us roughly 5 hours to do the 90 kms and boy it was exhilarating. (inset pictures: en route to Khardungla (K-top)
Next day, we went to Pangong Lake. And that is 170 kms one way. The road is terrible and on the way, you go through Chang-la (which at 17856 ft. is the World’s third highest motorable pass), which is also known as the “Mighty Chang-la” as it is really tough to get here. The road is twice as bad as enroute to K-top and for twice as long stretches. This journey is definitely not for those with weak backs. But I have to say, that on the way, you come across stretches which words can do no justice to. Every now and then, the Indus river joins you, the dark brown mountains suddenly give away to greenest of green pastures (and you could even see Yaks grazing), and that coupled with crystal blue sky is truly heavenly. As if the build up to Pangong is not enough, the climax is fitting. Pangong lake at almost 15000 ft is as beautiful as any in the World (you could see seven shades of blue… yes ... seven... its crazy beautiful here). You could camp overnight and be fed standard lunch/dinner or maggi and chai. We just opted for the later. (inset pictures: Pangong Lake at almost 15000 ft)
Last day, in Leh, we decided to do some touristy shopping. Apricots are a rage in this part of the city. So I helped myself to some. The Pashima shawls are famous (didn’t buy them though) but the fabrics are decent and some Leh T-shirts ofcourse. The day was spent relaxing from all the riding of the previous days. In Leh, I made a lot of friends – Dilip from Chattisgarh (the discussions we had about naxal movement and Salwa Judem were fascinating), Shamin the owner of the guest house (he was my guidebook informing me about the life in Leh and his “nun chai” were the absolute best), Stanzin (the motorcycle rent guy) went out of the way to get the permit arranged, and the other “Dilip” the owner of Little Café which served the most delicious paranthas and dal-chawal-subzi-roti lunch. The people here are as good as any you would meet anywhere on the planet and that just adds to the beauty this place has to offer. All the adjectives: beautiful, magical, stunning, heavenly, breathtaking, I think, were coined with Leh in mind.
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